Nothing ruins the experience of a new cowboy hat faster than a poor fit. Too tight, and you'll end up with headaches and red pressure marks. Too loose, and the hat slides around or flies off at the first gust of wind. The good news is that finding your perfect size is straightforward with the right technique and a simple tape measure.
What You'll Need
Before you start, gather these items:
- A flexible measuring tape (the kind used for sewing is ideal)
- A mirror, or someone to help you
- A pen and paper to record your measurement
If you don't have a flexible tape measure, you can use a piece of string or ribbon, then measure the string against a rigid ruler or tape measure.
Step-by-Step Measuring Guide
Step 1: Find the Right Position
The measuring tape should circle your head at the exact level where a hat sits—approximately 1 centimetre above your ears and eyebrows. This is roughly where your skull begins to curve inward toward the top of your head. Stand in front of a mirror to ensure the tape is level all the way around.
Step 2: Wrap the Tape
Starting at the centre of your forehead, wrap the tape around the back of your head, keeping it level and parallel to the floor. The tape should sit at the same height all the way around, crossing the most prominent part of the back of your skull (the occipital bone).
Take three measurements and use the average. Head shape isn't perfectly round, so measurements can vary by a few millimetres depending on exactly where you position the tape.
Step 3: Read Your Measurement
Where the tape meets itself at your forehead, read the measurement in centimetres. Don't pull the tape tight—it should be snug but not compressed against your head. A good test: you should be able to slide a finger under the tape.
Step 4: Note Your Head Shape
While measuring, observe your head shape. Is it more round (similar width front-to-back and side-to-side) or oval (longer front-to-back than side-to-side)? Most heads are slightly oval. This matters because some hat brands offer oval or long oval sizing options that provide a better fit for oval head shapes.
Understanding Hat Size Systems
Hat sizing varies by region and manufacturer. Here's how to convert your measurement:
Australian/Metric Sizing
Australian brands like Akubra and Jacaru use centimetre measurements directly. If you measured 58cm, you need a size 58 hat. Simple.
Generic Sizing (S/M/L/XL)
Many affordable hats use generic sizing. Here's how these typically correspond to measurements:
- Small (S): 54-55cm
- Medium (M): 56-57cm
- Large (L): 58-59cm
- Extra Large (XL): 60-61cm
- XXL: 62-63cm
US Sizing
American brands like Stetson and Resistol use a different system based on inches, though expressed as fractions:
- Size 6â…ž = 55cm
- Size 7 = 56cm
- Size 7â…› = 57cm
- Size 7ÂĽ = 58cm
- Size 7â…ś = 59cm
- Size 7½ = 60cm
- Size 7â…ť = 61cm
Size charts vary between manufacturers. Always check the specific brand's size guide before ordering online. A size 58 from one brand may fit differently than a 58 from another.
How a Properly Fitted Hat Should Feel
When you first try on a new felt hat, it should feel snug—almost slightly too tight. This is intentional. Quality felt hats are designed to "break in" over the first few weeks of wear, conforming to your head shape as the sweatband stretches and moulds to you.
A new hat that feels perfectly comfortable from day one will likely become too loose within a month. Conversely, if a new hat causes pain or leaves deep red marks on your forehead, it's genuinely too small and won't break in enough to become comfortable.
- The hat sits level, about one finger-width above your eyebrows
- You can shake your head vigorously without the hat moving significantly
- There's no pressure causing pain or headaches
- The sweatband touches your forehead evenly all around
- When you remove the hat, your forehead may show slight marks that fade quickly
What If You're Between Sizes?
If your measurement falls between two sizes (say, 57.5cm), consider these factors:
For felt hats: Generally choose the smaller size. Felt hats stretch and mould to your head over time. A slightly snug new hat will become perfect with wear.
For straw hats: Choose the larger size. Straw doesn't stretch like felt and may actually shrink slightly if exposed to moisture and then dried. A slightly loose straw hat can be made snugger with foam sizing tape inside the sweatband.
For leather hats: Go with the closer size. Leather has moderate stretch—less than felt but more than straw. If exactly between sizes, lean toward the smaller size.
Adjusting Hat Fit
Minor fit adjustments are possible without replacing your hat:
Making a Hat Smaller
If your hat is slightly too large, add foam sizing tape to the inside of the sweatband. These adhesive strips are available from hat shops and online, and they reduce the internal circumference by a few millimetres. Multiple strips can be used for greater adjustment.
Making a Hat Larger
A hat that's too small is harder to fix at home. You can try a hat stretcher—a device that applies gentle outward pressure to expand the crown. However, stretching more than about half a size risks damaging the hat structure. For significant size increases, consult a professional hatter.
Common Measurement Mistakes to Avoid
- Measuring over thick hair: If you have voluminous hair, gently compress it when measuring to simulate how your hair sits under a hat.
- Pulling the tape too tight: The measurement should represent a snug wrap, not a compression.
- Measuring at the wrong height: The tape must circle at hat-sitting level, not at the widest part of your skull.
- Using a stretched or old tape: Old fabric tape measures can stretch and give inaccurate readings.
With your accurate measurement in hand and an understanding of how different materials fit, you're ready to shop for cowboy hats with confidence—whether in store or online.